In the early summer of 2017, I was commissioned by director Walcene Metayer and costume designer Rebecca Joy Lewis to create an authentic dress for the Civil War Era film The Fighting Road.

It was a dream come true to create a costume piece for a historic drama and to work with such uniquely creative people. Throughout the process – from picking the style of the dress, to selecting the fabric, and even buttons, Walcene and Rebecca were amazing to work with!

The dress for this movie was made using techniques which are true to the Civil War period. Hours of labor went into finishes which would visually transport the viewer back to the 1860’s. From tiny piping between the shoulder and sleeve seam, to hand-gathered pleats in the skirt waist and a hand-finished, 180″ circumference hem, no authentic detail was spared. The 8 yards of rust red and khaki fabric were 100 percent homespun cotton.

In the story, Charlotte Rose (the character I designed for) is a freed slave, so the director and designer wanted her to wear a working-class dress. Naturally, this meant that we would avoid fabrics like silk and lace, and choose more practical textiles of the era such as plain woolens and woven cottons, which were durable for working in and around the home.

Like a real working-class Victorian woman, we decided Charlotte would not be wearing a cumbersome hoopskirt, so often associated with typical Civil War Era fashion.  The large hoop would get in the way of her daily household responsibilities. Instead, we knew she would opt for something more practical to fill out her skirts – a corded petticoat (a cotton underskirt which has rows of cord sewn between two layers of fabric.)

 

Here is the beautiful Aviana Metayer as Charlotte.

 

Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Film
Photo used with permission by Mountain Top Films

 

Reproduction Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Movie
Photo used with permission by Mountain Top Films

 

If you would like to find out more about this amazing project, please go to their website or visit them on their Facebook page.

 

Close-up photos of the dress

Reproduction Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Film

 

Reproduction Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Film

 

Reproduction Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Film

A curved seam detail in the back, used during the 1860’s to visually make the waist appear smaller.

 

 

Reproduction Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Film

Front detail of waistband and cartridge pleating

 

Reproduction Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Film

Back detail of curved seam and cartridge pleating

 

Reproduction Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Film

 

Construction pictures:

 

Bodice:

Front of bodice – darts have been sewn in fabric and lining, then both are basted together:

Reproduction Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Film

 

 

Reproduction Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Film

The lining is brown polished cotton, often used in original gowns of the era.

Back of bodice:

Reproduction Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Film

 

Reproduction Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Film

A curved seam detail, achieved by sewing a running stich through both layers of fabric.

 

 

Reproduction Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Film

On the right side, the fabric is then creased over the running stich, just enough to hide it.

 

Finally, the creased line is sewn down with a tiny row of back stiches.

 

 

 

Skirt:

 

Reproduction Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Film

Cartridge pleats are created by making two rows of evenly spaced stiches

 

Reproduction Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Film

Gathers are pulled together to create tight pleats

 

Reproduction Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Film

Each pleat is sewn directly to a cotton tape which will be hidden by the waistband

 

Oh…and…yes! The apron was made by me, too 🙂

 

Reproduction Dress by SewDecadesAgo for The Fighting Road Film