“Once upon a time, life was comparatively simple. There were silks and wools and cottons, and everything was just what it appeared to be on the surface. That was before man started playing variations on Mother Nature and created fabrics out of coal, milk and wood. That was before nylon and aralac and the rayon family came to live with us.
Dry clean or wash? Hot or cold water? Hang in the shade or roll in a towel? Press on the wrong side or the right? Hot iron or warm? Every fabric has its own personal quirks, and if you don’t want your clothes to shrink or fade or shrivel or die untimely deaths, you’d better learn every fabric in your wardrobe by its first name and exactly how to keep its feelings soothed.” – The New Encyclopedia of Modern Sewing, 1943
At the beginning of the 20th century, fabrics still contained natural fibers like silk, wool, linen and cotton. These could be combined into a wide variety of materials which were available to the seamstress or tailor. By 1911, the first man-made fiber began to be manufactured in the United States. It was called artificial silk, and in 1924 the name was changed to Rayon. By the 1940’s more synthetic fibers were manufactured:
Aralac – fiber made from the casein of milk. It is usually used in combinations with wool, cotton or rayon and can be treated to resemble any of of them.
Nylon – A synthetic fiber made from derivatives of coal, air, and water. It is strong, elastic and non-absorbent.
Vinyon – A synthetic fiber made from derivatives of coal, air and water.
Terms used in Describing Fabrics
Fabrics of the same fiber may differ in construction. The differences in weaving processes cause differences in appearance. In order to understand these differences, there are certain textile terms that should be understood.
- Warp – the threads of a fabric that run lengthwise and parallel to the selvage.
- Filling also referred to as Weft or Woof – the threads of a fabric that run crosswise from selvage edge to selvage edge.
- Twist – the number of turns in a fiber. Usually a fabric made of tightly twisted yarns has a harder, smoother finish than one made of loosely twisted yarns.
- Thread Count – the number of warp and filling yarns per square inch of fabric. It is a form of measurement to designate the quality of a fabric, but does not necessarily indicate strength. However, a fabric which has approximately the same thread count in warp and filling yarns will usually wear better than one having a difference in the number of warp and filling yarns.
- Yarn Dye – yarns of fibers dyed before they are woven into cloth.
- Floats – the yarns that are carried across the surface of the fabric, for short intervals, and then caught in the weave at intervals. The presence of floats in fabrics affects the durability of the cloth, because they catch and snag easily.
- Sizing – stiffening or dressing added to cotton or linen to give a better appearance of body or quality.
- Mercerization – the name of a process by which fibers are treated to improve the lister and add to the elasticity and strength of the thread or fabric.
- Napping – a process whereby the fabric is passed over a revolving cylinder which is covered with wire teeth or teasels to raise the nap. The wires scratch the ends of the fibers and bring them to the surface. The nap is then clipped to a uniform length. The surface of wool fabrics and blankets is napped to cover up defects, to make them softer to the touch, to increase warmth (the hairy surface entraps and holds more air).
- Worsted – yarn made from woolen fibers laid parallel to one another on the length of the strand and then highly twisted. This yarn produces a hard and durable finish in fabrics, in contrast to the soft feel of cloth woven from wool yarns that are not laid parallel and are not so highly twisted.
The following is a glossary of materials which were available in the early to mid-20th century. This is by no means an exhaustive list – I will be adding more names as I continue to learn about vintage fabrics.
You will notice that some of these materials no longer exist, some are known by a different name, and others are still very familiar to the modern crafter.
Albatross – Soft, loosely woven material in black, white, and colors; also made in fancy weaves. Closely related to nun’s veiling or chiffon batiste. Used for shirred and draped dresses. By the 1940s it was used for infants’ wear, negligees and linings.
Albert Cloth – Reversible, double-faced material, each side a different color. Used for coats, suits, and wraps.
Alpaca – Strong, elastic, wiry fabric with a glossy brightness of silk. Used for men’s summer suits and coat linings, and for women’s tailored skirts.
Armure – Stiff, firm rayon or silk fabric. Stripe, rib or allover design in damask weave. Used for linings, neckwear, trimmings, skirts, suits, upholstery, draperies. In the 1910 it was known as a woolen material, similar to Alpaca, woven in bird’s eye and diamond effect.
Astrakhan, or astrachan – A woolen or silk material with a long, closely curled pile in imitation of real astrakhan. A most desirable material, producing considerable warmth. Used for coats for men, women, and children; also for caps, muffs and scarfs.
Argentine Cloth – Highly glazed cotton fabric in a plain open weave with very low thread count. Washing removes glaze or stiffening. Used for curtains and closet accessories.
Barathea – Wool. Fine, soft, close weave in imitation pebble effect. Excellent for dresses and light-weight suits.
Basket Cloth – Cotton fabric woven in a basket weave in which tow or more filling fibers pass over and under two or more warp threads. Solid surface with loose weave. Used for place mats, runners, pillow covers and draperies.
Batiste –
- Sheer, soft, smooth cotton, linen, or wool fabric made in plain weave. Used for infants’ wear, blouses, lingerie, children’s dresses.
- In the 1910’s, it was a lightweight wool material with even warp and weft in plain colors; sometimes called tamise; in very light weight, called chiffon batiste. Used for afternoon and evening dresses.
Bedford Cord – Material with lengthwise cord, raised surface with plain stripes between; made in cotton and wool. Used for skirts and suits.
Bengaline –
- Corded fabric in a plain weave with silk or rayon warp threads and heavy cotton, worsted, rayon or silk filling threads. Has a characteristic crosswise rib. Used for coats, suits, dresses, draperies.
- In the 1910’s, wool-and-silk material with a heavy, filled crosswise cord of wool that is covered with threads of silk and wool. Used for skirts and suits.
Bird’s Eye Cloth – Linen or Cotton fabric with a dot in center of a diamond design that is woven in the cloth (figure weave). Soft, absorbent. Used for Infants’ diapers, towels.
Bobbinet – Fine or coarse net cotton fabric with characteristic six-sided meshes. Used for curtains.
Bouclé – Woven or knitted wool, cotton, silk or rayon with a curled or looped surface appearance. Used for suits and coats.
Broadcloth
- Cotton – soft, closely woven, firm fabric in plain weave with warp threads more closely spaced than filling threads. Filling threads are more pronounced, showing a very fine rib. Usually mercerized finish. Used for Men’s shirts, pajamas, shorts; women’s blouses, tailored dresses, uniforms, children’s suits, dresses.
- Silk – Closely woven lustrous fabric in plain weave. Used for shirts, pajamas, sports clothes.
- Wool – Soft, closely woven, lustrous, napped fabric with a satin appearance. Plain weave. used for coats, dresses, suits.
Brocade –
- silk or rayon fabric in figure weave. Designs are woven in contrasting colors from the background and are raised. Frequently silver and gold threads are introduced into filling threads. Used as trimming and for elaborate evening gowns and wraps, housecoats, hostess dresses, upholstery.
- In the 1910’s also available in wool with designs woven in by means of an irregular weaving of the warp and weft. Sometimes in very simple patterns but more often in large, elaborate figures. Used for dresses, suits, trimmings.
Brocatelle – Heavy silk or rayon fabric in figure weave. Extra filling yarns throw pattern into higher relief than brocade. Used for upholstery and draperies.
Buckram – Stiff, open weave cotton fabric made by gluing two fabrics of plain weave together. For interlining or stiffening used in clothing, leather goods or millinery.
Bunting – Soft, thin cotton or wool fabric in plain weave. Used for flags and decorations.
Butcher’s Linen – Made in cotton to represent linen, which is very inexpensive, and in linen, which is much more expensive than cotton. Its heavy, coarse weave makes it a durable cloth. Originally used for butchers’ aprons, fancy work, and for dresses and suits. In the 1940s it was used for women’s suits, slacks. Rayon sometimes made to look like this.
“Cotton and linen have gone chic on us. Yes, we know that you’ve heard this before. Every year for the last three, stylists have become very sentimental…along about March first…each year practically everyone has gone right on wearing silk and more silk, just the same. This time, however, things will be different; this is the summer to believe the stylists.” – Delineator Magazine, 1933
Cambric
- Cotton – White or yarn dyed fabric with plain weave and slight gloss on one side. Used for fancy dress costumes, interlinings.
- Linen – Sheer, fine linen of plain weave. Used for handkerchiefs, neckwear, blouses and doilies.
Camel’s Hair – A fabric with a hairy surface made entirely of partly of camel’s hair. In cheaper grades, cow hair is used, when the material is called camel’s-hair back. Used for coats, overcoats, and horse blankets.
Canton Crêpe – Silk or rayon fabric with a slight cross ribbed effect. This effect is caused because the filling yarns are heavier than the warp threads. Alternating yarns of different twists form ribbed effect. Plain weave. Used for dresses.
Canton Flannel – Soft, warm and absorbent cotton fabric. A twill weave shows on one side and a long fleecy nap on the reverse. Used for sleeping garments, infants’ wear, interlinings for coats.
Canvas – A coarse, firm, even weave fabric in linen or cotton. Used as a body in tailored coats, and sometimes in upholstery work. Also for interlinings and suit lapels.
Cashmere – A soft, twilled wool weave in beautiful shades and sometimes woven-in figures. Attractive and durable for women’s dresses and for children’s and infants’ wear.
Challis, challie, or chally – Light-weight wool, cotton or rayon material in plain weave with no luster. Used for dresses, negligées and sleeping garments.
Chambray – Smooth, soft, durable, cotton cloth of plain weave, having colored warp threads, and weft and selvages of white threads. Used for Men’s and boys’ shirts, women’s dresses, children’s clothes.
Charmeuse – A soft, dull, satiny fabric having a twilled back. Used for dresses, especially draped dresses.
Cheesecloth – Thin, soft cotton fabric with a very low thread count, and little or no sizing. Plain weave. Used for fancy dress wear, experimental draping, curtains, dust cloths.
Cheviot – Wool. Diagonal cord weave with slight nap; usually heavy weight. Used for suits and coats. Requires much care in tailoring, especially in pressing.
Chiffon – A very soft, flimsy, transparent silk material. Washable, crinkled chiffon is sometimes called Georgette crepe. Used for trimmings, overdrapes, and waists and as a foundation under lace dresses, etc.
Chiffon taffeta – A light-weight taffeta of good quality, with a soft lustrous finish. Used for evening gowns, street dresses, and suits.
Chiffon Velvet – The lightest, softest velvet known, and, owing to its adaptability to draping, is perhaps the prettest. Used for elaborate dresses, suits, evening gowns and wraps.
China Silk – A thin, transparent fabric with a luster. Used for dresses, underwear, and linings.
Chinchilla – Very fine, closely woven pile fabric in imitation of chinchilla fur. The cheaper qualities rough up and soon appear shabby. Used for heavy coats and for men’s overcoats.
Chintz – Plain woven fabric of fine cotton yarns. May be glazed on one side. Usually printed with floral patterns. Used for draperies, slip covers, upholstery, cushions, housecoats, playclothes.
Clay Worsted – Soft twilled wool fabric similar to serge. Used for dresses and and suits.
Corded Silk – Similar to grosgrain, except that the cord is rounded and varies in thickness from a very fine to a very coarse thread. Used for coats and coat suits and for trimmings; the fine corded fabrics are sometimes used for blouses.
Corduroy – Cotton fabric with pile in wide or narrow wales of ribbing running warpwise. The weave may be twill or plain. Used for suits, dresses, slacks, coats, bathrobes, housecoats, children’s wear, upholstery, draperies.
Covert Cloth – Wool material of firm, diagonal twilled weave. Usually in light tan; wears well and tailors nicely. Used chiefly for outing suits and wraps.
Crash – A coarse linen weave with even weft threads. Used for towels, fancy work, dresses, suits, and children’s garments.
Cravenette – Fine twilled wool fabric similar to serge and filled from the wrong side with a sizing that renders the material moisture-proof. Used for coats, capes, and ulsters.
Crêpe –
- A soft, crinkled, washable material, sometimes called Canton. Used for blouses, dresses, and underwear.
- In the 1910’s silk and wool – A soft, even crepe weave suitable for draped dresses.
- In the 1910’s, wool, twisted weft thread woven in crinkled effect, sometimes called éponge. Extensively used for dresses.
Crêpe-Back-Satin – silk or rayon fabric with satin weave on one side and crêpe back of hard twisted yarn. Satin appearance on one side and crêpe on the other. Used for dresses, blouses, lingerie, linings.
Crêpe de Chine – Beautiful, washable fabric with a lustrous, finely crinkled effect. Used for waists, dresses, and underwear.
Crêpe de Meteor – A lustrous silk crêpe with a fine twilled face. Used chiefly for dresses.
Cretonne – Strong cotton fabric in plain or figured weaves. Unglazed, printed on one or both sides. Usually heavier and coarser than chintz. Has soft, thick, filling yarns. Used for curtains, slip covers, upholstery, draperies.
Crinkle-Crêpe – Silk or rayon crêpe with a crinkled appearance. Plain weave. Used for dresses.
Damask –
- Silk with figures and ground of contrasting weaves; sometimes called Brocade; usually made with satins grounds. Mostly used for linings.
- Linen – comes in satin weaves; sometimes in brocaded figures. Used for towels, table linen, and napkins.
Diaper – Bird’s eye weave; absorbs water readily. Used for dresses, blouses, towels, and fancy work.
Duchess Satin – A close, firm satin fabric of high luster. Used for dresses and evening wraps. White is used for bridal dresses.
Doeskin – A compact, twilled woolen with a texture that is pliable without being flimsy. Used for gloves, skirts, coats, hats, wraps, and for linings in heavy fur coats.
Drap d’Alma, Duvetene, or duvtyn – Soft, double-diagonal twill. Excellent fabric for dresses and suits. The body of the material of a weave similar to flannel, and which, with a short, soft nap, is used for children’s coats and women’s suit and coats.
Eiderdown – A soft, twilled, cotton-filled fabric with a long-wool nap, sometimes on just one side and sometimes on both sides, the former being called single-faced and the latter, double-faced. Used extensively for children garments; also for lounging and bath robes.
Etamine – Soft, light-weight woolen in plain open weave. Used for shirred and plaited dresses.
Faille – Silk or rayon and cotton fabric of plain weave with cross ribbing made by heavy filling yarns. Used for suits, dresses, millinery, jackets.
Felt – A firm-packed, smooth wool fabric. Used for table covers, pennants.
Flannel – Plain, soft, loosely woven material with warp and weft threads of equal size. Extensively used for infant’ petticoats and sacks and for men’s shirts. In colored, loose weaves, sometimes called hop sacking, or sacking, it is used for men’s and women’s suits.
Foulard – A soft, serviceable, satiny silk with a fine twill; plain and figured. Used for dresses and blouses.
Gaberdine – Firm twilled cotton or wool fabric which has a raised diagonal rib effect on right side. Used for men’s and women’s suits, and coats, skirts, riding habits, uniforms.
Gauze – A light, perforated fabric used for sheer foundations, transparent yokes and collars, frills and trimmings.
Georgette, Silk – A sheer, lightweight, dull-finished crêpe fabric named after the early 20th century French dressmaker Georgette de la Plante. Georgette is made with highly twisted yarns. Its characteristic crinkly surface is created by alternating S and Z twist yarns in both warp and weft. Georgette is made in solid colors and prints and is used for dresses, blouses, evening gowns and trimmings. Georgette has a very light and drapey hand, rendering it best suited to loose flowing garments.
“She is sure of herself -sure of her frock. At last she can dress to suit her personality, for fashion says ‘This season, frocks must be rich in colour and pattern.” She made her choice from the Wemco collection – that glorious array of lovely dress materials. There was a radiant Embassy Georgette which she couldn’t resist…and now she claims the limelight wherever she goes, for her frock is a triumph.” – Wemco Fabrics Advertisement, 1933
Gloria – A diagonal twilled fabric of silk, wool and cotton; also called Zanella Cloth. Used as a substitute for silk in covering umbrellas.
Gossamer – A very soft, cobwebby silk gauze. Used as veiling for babies and as automobile veils. Sometimes called Sewing Silk or Gauze.
Granite – Hard twisted woolen yarns woven in armure effect; light in weight and very durable. Used for skirts and suits. Requires care in tailoring.
Grenadine – An open-work, gauze-like, silk; plain or figured. Also made of wool or cotton. Used for overdrapes and evening gowns.
Grosgrain – Pronounce grograin. Cotton, silk or rayon fabric in plain weave with heavy ribbed effect. Early on it was manufactured in white and black only. Used for dresses, suits and millinery.
Habutaye – A fine, washable, Japanese silk; smooth and even in texture. Used for summer dresses, blouses, skirts, and automobile or traveling coats.
Handkerchief linen – Sheer batiste weave; an exquisite fabric; launders beautifully. More often made of Irish linen. Used for handkerchiefs, neckwear, lingerie blouses, and dresses.
Hanrietta – A fine diagonal twilled dress fabric similar to cashmere, but with a little harder, coarser weave. Used the same as cashmere.
Holland – Coarse, firm weave. Used for window shades and in photography.
Homespun – A loose, rough material of plain weave and coarse yarn, Formerly made on hand looms at home; now imitated by machine. The soft, even warp and weft threads lend themselves to tailoring. Used for outing suits and men’s clothes.
Huckaback – Irregular weave, absorbs water readily; weft threads very prominent, warp threads often of cotton. Used for towels and fancy work.
Japan Silk – This name covers a variety of Japanese silks, but is commonly applied to cheaper qualities of Habutaye silk. Heavier and coarser weave than China Silk. Used for blouses, summer dresses, and kimonos.
Jean – A twilled, undressed cloth with cotton warp and woolen weft, or sometimes in all cotton, and referred to in the ;plural, as jeans. Used for trousers, boys’ suits, and women’s outing suits.
Jersey Cloth – Woolen or silk mixed stockinette weave. In the 1910,s used chiefly for undergarments and petticoats.
Kaiki – A heavy, all-silk Japanese fabric. Used for summer dresses, blouses, and unlined coats.
Karakul Cloth – Made in imitation of Persian lamb skin, which has short hair tightly curled to the body. Used for women and children’s coats and for muffs and stoles.
Kersey – A light-weight beaver cloth; does not fray or stretch easily. Used for suits, capes, and overcoats.
Lamé – Plainly woven or brocaded silk or rayon fabric. Gold or silver threads are mixed with silk or rayon. Used for dresses, blouses, wraps, neckwear, trimmings.
Lansdowne – A very fine, wiry, silk-and-wool material in plain weave. Used mostly for women’s dresses.
Lawn –
- A sheer, crisp linen. Used for neckwear, handkerchiefs, and lingerie dresses.
- Sheer, fine, soft cotton cloth with a plain weave. Lightly starched or sized. May be printed. Used for infants’ wear, dresses, blouses, neckwear, underwear.
Longcloth – Fine, soft, closely woven cotton cloth made in a plain weave. It is bleached and lightly sized. Used for infants’ and children’s dresses, underwear.
Liberty Satin – A soft satin lining material.
Lousine – A plain, durable silk; soft glossy texture; slightly twilled. Used for dresses, coat linings, and trimmings.
Madras –
- A durable wash silk, in fine weaves. Used for tailored blouses and men’s negligee shirts.
- Firm, soft cotton cloth. Usually made from mercerized yarn. Fabric us usually striped or has small figures which are woven into cloth. Plain or figure weave. Used for shirts, dresses, aprons.
Maline – Fine net silk fabric characterized by hexagonal open mesh. Used for veils, neckwear, evening dresses.
Marquisette – Silk or cotton fabric with gauze weave, having open mesh appearance. Used for glass curtains and dresses.
Matelassé – Raised woven designs in wool, cotton, silk, or rayon fabric. Gives a blistered or quilted effect to cloth. Figure weave. Used for dresses.
Melton – Heavily felted wool fabric with a short nap. Plain weave. Used for men’s and women’s overcoats and coats.
Merino – Fine French all-wool dress fabric; twilled on both sides. Excellent for women’s dresses.
Messaline – A closely woven satin; soft and brilliant. Used for evening and day dresses; also, for petticoats and linings.
Mistral – Twisted warp-and-weft threads woven to give a crêpe effect. Used for dresses.
Mohair – Similar to brilliantine, but woven of finer yarn in watered or grosgrain effect. Sometimes combined with silk or cotton. Used for women’s suits and men’s coats.
Moiré – A watered effect produced on a corded or ribbed silk or rayon fabric. Made by passing cloth through heated rollers which engrave pattern on cloth. Plain weave. Expensive grades show beautiful designs. Used for coats, dresses, suits, and trimmings.
Monk’s Cloth – Rough, loosely woven cotton fabric in basket weave. Used for draperies, upholstery, bedspreads, pillows.
Mousseline de Soie – A transparent silk or rayon gauze-like material in even weave. When slightly stiffened, is sometimes called Pineapple Cloth. Used for dresses, blouses, linings for lace yokes and collars.
Mull – Material having a cotton warp and a cheap quality of silk for weft. Frequently mercerized cotton is substituted for silk mull. Used for foundations of dresses and blouses, and for inexpensive party dresses.
Muslin – Durable, firm, plain weave cotton cloth bleached or unbleached. In cheaper grades it is usually heavily sized. Wide widths are used for sheeting. The narrow, finer cloth is used for underwear. Also for dresses, shirts, aprons, housecoats, lingerie, children’s’ clothing.
Nainsook – Soft, lightweight cotton fabric made of fine yarns. The fabric has a plain weave and a luster on one side. Plain wave. Used for handmade lingerie, infants’ wear.
Ninon – Sheer silk or rayon, open mesh fabric of plain weave. One of the more durable sheer cloths. Used for Dresses, lingerie, glass curtains, draperies.
Novelty Suitings – Originally of plain homespun weave with rough, irregular filling of different colors; but the name is frequently applied to all weaves, especially brocaded or Jacquard effects. Used for skirts and suits.
Nun’s Veiling – Soft, light-weight fabric, in plain weave. Sometimes called wool batiste; coarser weaves called nun’s cloth. Very satisfactory for shirred dresses, as it drapes well.
Organdie – Fine transparent cotton fabric in a plain weave. Its characteristic crisp finish may be of a permanent nature or may wash out after a few launderings, according to the manner in which the fabric has been treated. Used for dresses, neckwear, curtains, bedspreads,
Ottoman –
- Thick, corded silk. Used more for wraps and as a trimming than for dresses.
- In wool, smooth, ribbed weave, similar to panama. Used for dresses ad light-weight suits.
Outing Flannel – Lightweight cotton fabric with nap on both sides. Twill or plain weave. Soft, absorbent. Used for sleeping garments, infants’ wear.
Oxford Shirting – Mercerized cotton fabric in a basket weave. Yarn is dyed before it is woven. Soft and absorbent. Used for men’s shirts, women’s dresses.
Panama – Hard twisted yarn, in plain weave. Used extensively for skirts, sometimes for suits.
Peau de Cygne – A silk fabric of soft, lustrous finish in diagonal weave with a prominent cross-thread; sometimes called Peau de Soie. Used for dresses, suits, and coats.
Peau de Soie – Silk. A firm, soft, durable fabric in grainy weave with dull satiny finish. Woven with single and double face. Used for tailored dresses and trimming.
Percale – closely woven firm cotton fabric made in a plain weave in solid colors or prints. Used for dresses, aprons, children’s clothes, playclothes, housecoats, draperies.
Percaline – Fine, thin, glossy percale. Finished with sizing. Used for linings and foundations.
Persian – A silk of many colors and designs. Used for linings and trimmings.
Piqué – Cotton fabric with cording effect running lengthwise or in novelty effects. Novelty weave. Used for collars, cuffs, blouses, vestees, dresses, playclothes, children’s clothes.
Plissé Crêpe – Cotton fabric of plain weave treated with a caustic bath which causes cloth to crinkle. Crinkle only remains in fabric if not ironed. Used for underwear, sleeping garments.
Plush – A rich fabric with a pile face and a coarse, woven back. Plush pile is longer than t hat of velvet. Used for coats, capes, collars, muffs, upholstery.
Polo Cloth – Soft fabric made from loosely spun yarns in a twill weave. Can be napped on both sides of fabric to give more warmth. The yarns may be wool, alpaca, camel’s hair. Used for coats and jackets.
Pompadour – A flowered taffeta; sometimes in rich, beautiful colorings. Used for party dresses, linings, and fancy work.
Pongee – Lightweight silk fabric, plainly woven of irregular yarns. Used for summer suits, dresses, and blouses.
Poplin –
- Cotton, silk, or wool fabric of plain weave. Warp threads are of fine yarn giving a corded effect on crosswise grain. Used for dresses, suits, coats, skirts, children’s clothes.
- Wool – Same weave as cotton poplin. A firm, durable fabric. Sometimes woven in silk and wool, the very light weight of which is called eolienne cloth or poplinette. Used for dresses, skirts and suits.
Prunella – Fine, closely woven twilled fabric. Used for dresses, light-weight suits, and clergymen’s robes.
Ratiné – Loosely woven, rather stretchy cotton, silk, rayon or wool fabric made in plain weave. Filling threads are looped and are of novelty yarn to produce a rough effect. Used for dresses, coats and suits.
Rayon (artificial silk, art silk, fiber silk, chemical silk, scientific silk, rayonner, wood silk, and rayon silk) – made from purified cellulose fibers, which are typically created from wood pulp. Though rayon is derived from natural materials, it requires certain chemicals, so it’s considered to be a semi-synthetic fabric. Used for hosiery, sweaters, draperies and curtains, embroidery and trim, bed spreads, dresses, scarves, blouses, women’s suits, hats, and socks.
- Petalchene – An exquisite rayon fabric of a beautifully soft texture which comes up like new after contsat washing and ironing.
- Pelco Taffeta – 100% Rayon Taffeta. Admirably suitable for attractive dance frocks, it is of exceptional quality, finely woven and with a beautifully silky finish.
- Petal Washing Satin – 100% Artificial Silk Satin. The ideal fabric for dainty “undies” and night attire.
Rep – Firm cotton, wool, rayon, or silk fabric with heavier filling thread that warm thread. Crosswise rib is very distinct. Plain wave. Used for skirts, suits, men’s and boys’ wear, draperies, upholstery.
Sateen – Cotton fabric with a satin weave. A mercerized finish further increases luster. Used for linings, draperies, costumes, slip covers.
Satin – Firm basic weave with a glossy, smooth luster on the face and a dull back. Comes in many varieties. Used for dresses, coats, linings, etc.
Satin, Skinner’s – Heavy, durable satin with high luster. Used chiefly for linings.
Scrim – Light, transparent cotton fabric in open mesh, plain weave. Used for curtains.
Seersucker – Lightweight, washable cotton fabric in plain weave with crinkly stripes running lengthwise at alternating intervals. Crinkle is cause by slackening tension of warm yarns. Does not need to be ironed. Used for dresses, children’s clothes, men’s suits, playclothes, underwear.
Serge –
- Soft, durable wool, rayon or silk cloth made from worsted yarns; sometimes called Surah Serge. A twill weave with a diagonal effect on both sides of cloth. Used for men’s and women’s suits and coats, dresses, skirts, middy blouses and shirts.
- French – Very fine, soft weave, easily tailored, wears splendidly, but in wearing produces a shine more readily than other serges. Used for dresses, skirts and suits.
- Mohair – wiry weave, difficult to tailor.
- Storm, Wide Wale – Hard, fine weave with nap. Pronounced diagonal weave. Used for dress skirts and suits.
Shantung – A heavy grade of Pongee silk. A rough, plain, washable fabric of natural color. Used for dresses and blouses.
Sheeting – Linen fabric used for pillow cases, sheets, towels, wash dresses, and suits.
Sicilienne – Material with cotton warp and wool or mohair weft, which gives a wiry finish. Used for men’s dusters and summer coats.
Surah – Soft, lightweight silk fabric in a twill weave. Used for Neckties, dresses and blouses.
Swiss, Dotted – Fine, transparent, crisp cotton fabric in plain weave. Frequently figured with dots or small figure that are produced by a special process of weaving or by chemical application. Used for curtains, dresses, blouses, bedspreads, neckwear.
Taffeta –
- A fine, smooth, glossy, untwilled silk or rayon fabric; considerable body; alike on both sides. May be plain, figured, striped, or plaid. Iridescent effect of some taffetas is cause by difference in color of filing and warp yarns. Used for dresses, blouses, suits, millinery, slips, draperies, upholstery.
- Wool – Closely woven, smooth weave. Similar, bit of finer quality, than panama. Used for dresses, skirts, and suits.
“Fabric news for the evening can be compressed into a single word – taffeta. It is the material par excellence for this new line which so much pleases us; it has dignity, grace and beauty. Wear taffeta, then, in the evening; and if you would be all that there is of the most chic, wear it in white…” – Weldon’s Ladies’ Journal, 1933
Tartan – Material with hard-twisted warp and weft threads, with stripes running at right angles to each other. Sometimes it comes in variegated colors, which material is called tartan plaid. Used for suits and skirts.
Terry Cloth – Cotton pile fabric with raised uncut loops on both sides of fabric. Used for bath towels, bath robes, beach robes, wash cloths.
Ticking – Firm, durable cotton cloth in twill weave with yarn-dyed blue and white stripes running lengthwise. Used for mattress and pillow covering, upholstery, playclothes.
Tropical Worsted – Light-weight worsted cloth in plain weave. Used for men’s and women’s suits.
Tulle – Soft silk or rayon net of fine mesh. Used for trimmings and veiling.
Tussah, wool – Wool warp with mohair weft, which gives a luster; light in weight. Used for dresses and suits.
Tweed – Rough surfaced wool fabric in plain, herringbone or twill weave. Warp thread is usually composed of a two-ply yarn which has two colors, giving a soft tone to the fabric. Used for suits and coats.
Velour – Soft, strong, closely woven cotton, woolen, silk, rayon fabric with a pile. Somewhat like velvet. Used for coats, suits, upholstery, draperies.
Velvet – Has a short, soft, thick pile face and a plain back. May be all silk, silk face, cotton or rayon. Used for dresses, suits, coats, negligees and trimmings; extensively used for millinery purposes.
Velveteen – Cotton fabric with a soft, thick, short pile on face and a plain or twill back. Resembles velvet. Used for dresses, coats, suits, children’s dresses, draperies, upholstery.
Velvet, Croise – Silk. Has coarser back than Lyons Velvet; so woven as to hold the pile firmly, making it suitable in all cases where a durable velvet is desired.
Velvet, “Crushed” – “Artvel” Cotton velvet. A beautiful effect with a rich, lustrous finish. Used for evening gowns and coats in the 1930’s.
Velvet, Lyons – Silk. Has a short nap that is not secure in its back, or foundation. Used for draperies and bows, for which is seems especially adapted.
Velvet, Mirror or Soliel – Silk. A shimmery velvet, made so by being pressed during its manufacture. Used as trimming and for millinery purposes.
Velvet, Nacre – Silk. A velvet with a back of one color and a pile of another, which give a beautiful changeable shading. Used of evening gowns and wraps, and as trimming, especially for millinery.
Velvet, Panne – Silk. Similar to mirror velvet, but as a rule, of better quality, Used for trimmings and for millinery.
Venetian – Wool similar to broadcloth, but not so glossy nor so satisfactory. Woven with a fine diagonal twilled face. Used for dresses, skirts and suits.
Vestings – Heavy, fancy silk materials usually highly colored and in Persian and corded effects. Used for vests and trimmings.
Viyella – Soft, dress-weight fabric that was more resistant to shrinkage than any comparable pure wool alternative (challis, for example). Blend of wool and cotton. It was made of 55 percent merino wool and 45 percent cotton in a twill weave. Used for shirts, nightgowns, dresses, skirts, lingerie, pajamas, infants’ and children’s clothing. Widely used in the 1920s and 1930s.
“Whatever the garment you make of ‘Viyella’ it’s a success. Smart, because of ‘Viyella’s’ almost endless range of designs and colourings, and the ever growing choice of paper patterns created specially for it. Light on the purse, because ‘Viyella’ stands up to wonderfully well to any amount of wear and washing. Comfortable, because ‘Viyella’ is so soothing to the skin, so light yet so protective, so soft and yet so strong” Advertisement in Weldon’s Ladies’ Journal, 1933
Voile – Sheer, semi-transparent silk, silk and wool, cotton or rayon fabric in plain weave. Used for dresses, blouses, curtains, lingerie.
Waterfall – A silk fabric with a thin, slightly open foundation, which is ribbed with velvet pile so woven as to form stripes. The stripes are usually 1/8-inch wide and have one to three warp threads showing between. Has a beautiful luster of velvet. Does not muss easily and drapes well, making it a very desirable material for evening wraps, scarfs, and millinery.
Whipcord – Wool in raised corded effect and semi-diagonal weave. Cord varies in width from extremely narrow to 1/8-inch. Used for skirts and suits.
Zibeline – Material of plain weave filled with glossy hair, which gives a nap 1/8 to 1/4-inch long. Similar to camel’s hair. Used for suits and overcoats.
