Like many others, I was very curious to try Simplicity’s re-print of this 1930’s style pattern. Since I usually only work with true-vintage sewing patterns, I wasn’t quite sure how this modern interpretation of a classic 30’s look would measure up and compare to the great cut, fit and design of old patterns. 

If you have been just as curious to give this pattern a go, my hope is that the following pictures and hints will inspire and maybe even convince you to begin a vintage sewing journey of your own. 

Bodice

I used view A, which has a front bodice consisting of three separate pieces joined together and decorated with ribbon or lace insertion. 

I wanted to experiment with a different look, though. Cutting plaid fabric on the bias (a 45° angle) adds visual interest to any garment, plus I’ve been hoping to use this cotton plaid fabric in one of my projects!

When cutting bias strips, decide how far beyond the seamline you want this trim to sit, and then do some simple math. Since the seam allowance is 5/8-inch, I doubled that amount to fold it in half, plus 1″, so the trim could sit a 1/2-inch above the seam line. 

5/8″ + 5/8″ +1″ = 2¼” 

A lap seam was used for the bodice front. 

Sleeves

Same bias trim was used in the front seam of sleeve.

I also wanted to decorate the sleeve cuffs with matching bias trim. I sewed the binding around the sleeve opening – right side of binding to right side of sleeve edge.

Puff sleeves don’t stay puffy on their own – they usually need help. Vintage dresses had little sleeve inserts sewn in, usually made from cotton organdy. It is a sheer and crisp fabric which remains stiff, even after washing.

Collar

The Peter Pan collar was lined with the dress fabric. I sewed the pieces together, trimmed seam allowance to about 1/8-inch, turned it to the right side and pressed.

The two collar pieces were then pinned to the neckline and basted. The next step was to cut a bias strip of fabric to bind the neckline. I cut mine wide enough for the seam allowance x 2, plus extra for turning under. Since the seam allowance on this project is 5/8-inch, I cut a strip 1 1/2-inch wide.

Bias binding was machine sewn to the neckline.

Seam allowance was trimmed for easier turning.

Bias trim was folded under and pinned in place.

Hand sewn binding for a clean finish.

Back Closure

I didn’t take any pictures of this step, but it is explained very clearly in the pattern directions. 

I hand-sewed thread loops and covered buttons from a kit with plaid fabric. These buttons are strictly decorative and the back is held closed with small metal hooks.

Skirt

The skirt in this dress is very straight forward. The back has two darts, which I sewed before joining the front and back pieces together.

All seams were pinked.

Skirt Hem

Zipper

I like to use original vintage metal zippers. I find them in thrift and antique shops, as well as on Etsy and eBay.

Belt

Using original belt buckles and buttons ads an air of vintage authenticity to reproduction garments. The one I used for this dress is an old Bakelite buckle. 

Simplicity did a wonderful job recreating this sewing pattern! The ample directions are easy to follow and pattern pieces go together well, with no issues to note.

I would recommend this pattern to those who have an interest in vintage sewing, but might be intimidated by the scarce directions and unprinted tissue paper pieces of an old pattern. 

The biggest changes from the original are:

  • the bodice length (vintage pattern waists came to just above the navel); this one is a bit longer.
  • the lack of long sleeves – this would have been a more accurate re-issue of an existing pattern;
  • the bust-to-waist ratio has changed drastically in the last 70 years – in the 1940’s, a 34-inch bust had a 28-inch waist measure. This modern redesign’s waist for the same bust is 26 ½-inches.

If you are curious about true (finished) measurements of this dress, they are pretty true to the sizes given.

I used size 14

Bust – 36″
Waist – 28″
Hip – 38″
Back width – 15.5″
Back length (nape of neck to natural waistline) – 16.5″
Bicep – 12.5″
Total length – 47″